Bart makes many drawings before he chooses one to use as a sugestion for a wire wall mural.

Some of the best ones are shown on this blog.

 http://www.wirewallart.com/

 

Posted By bartsoutendijk

nude wire wall art


Wire sculptures are installed on small loops – usually three of four per character.  Wire wall murals made for public areas like hotels, convention centers, or hospital waiting rooms may have more mounting loops to discourage vandalism. The art is mounted to the wall on wall anchors or wood screws. The loops hold the illustration about an inch away from the wall.

One of the loops is welded to the sculpture allowing the art to be balanced on a single finishing nail. The customer can hang the art this way—temporarily, to get used to it’s location – then mark the locations of all the loops and install wall anchors before permanently installing the piece.


 
Posted By bartsoutendijk

wire art of lady in a tub



Framed prints, photos, and oil paintings can get moldy in wet locations like shower areas, over hot tubs, and around indoor swimming pools. The mold collects behind them where the air is warm, wet, and stagnant.


Wire wall sculptures are mounted about a half inch away from the wall so air moves freely around and through the illustration. There are no spaces where mold can develop because the wire is mounted directly to the wall – not a board or canvas. The wire is powder coated with a mold resistant material.


This piece and others were purchased by an upscale resort hotel in the south of France and by five other customers because it was perfect for wet areas. One beach house owner had it powder coated with a special pigment that resisted salt spray.


 
Posted By bartsoutendijk
I use 14 gauge copper wire (bought from an electrical supply store) for the models (smaller pieces) and I solder the pieces together with rosin-core solder I buy from Radio Shack. When finished I paint the pieces with black Rust-oleum. The copper wire isn’t really very strong. It’s intended for grounding electrical fixtures and its very soft. I like it because you can bend it many more times before it breaks. Brass wire would be stronger (depending on how much Tin is in it), but you can’t bend it a lot.

 

 


 
Posted By bartsoutendijk
The drawings I trace with the wire are generally finalized on a computer using Adobe Photoshop. I use the pen tool to make paths and move them around until I like what I have. Then I export the paths to Adobe Illustrator and print the illustration to the size I want. That size is usually 11X17 inches (two 8-1/2X11 sheet that I tape together) for the models and 4 by 5 inches for the larger pieces (I project them on to plywood with an opaque projector and trace the image with a marker). I could start and finish my drawing using Illustrator software, but I have found the drawing tool hard to work with in illustrator. Photoshop is not as precise and that allows you to play with the image a lot more before you determine that it’s finished. Also Photoshop allows me to trace photos and drawings to use as a starting point. When I think of an image that interests me I can draw it quickly on a piece of paper, then scan the drawing with a scanner and manipulate it with Photoshop for hours until it’s exactly what I want.
 
I didn’t always use a computer. When I first started making drawings for sculptures, I used a drafting pen on tracing paper. I’d make a shape, then change it by tracing it a little differently on another piece of tracing paper. If I wanted to remove a line, I cut away the tracing paper that held the line with an Exacto knife. To add two partial drawings together, I used a stapler. If things got to messy, I traced the image over again. I still essentially do the same thing, today, but the computer makes it much easier.
 
For me, making wire sculptures is like drawing in space with a flashlight – only the light stays long after the flashlight is gone. I like that, too, because I can go back to the drawing and make changes to it or eliminate parts of it with pliers.

 

 

 
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